I was leashed and dragged into the water this morning. The conditions were perfect and if I was in my Super-Fearless Mode, I would have been flashing my newly whitened smile to the perfection all around me. Wet suit, unemployed, sunshine, head high surf, offshore breeze, and that oh so enticing, misty head of each wave. It was one of those Endless Summer moments. But in reality I was just squinting at the sun, shame on me. I felt so senselessly afraid of everything.

Boo!

um, not funny.

After a summer of warm water which, on some days, permitted the faineant arms of a back float, settling down within the first set of waves, took a bit longer than usual. Some surfers had reported a giant Sea-lion swimming around Kelly Cove, it was cold enough to play.

The board I used was 9'6", big enough to have that picnic I'd been planning and let me catch whatever swell I wanted. I practiced duck-dives with the park bench, I let the current pull me down the coast, fear fizzled.

I tried to explain to Ben why I was so afraid, the dumbfounded look on his face stopped me mid sentence. His reply.

"I think you're getting sunburned."

On this perfect thursday morning, finally,

I get it.

Later, to aid in the "down time", which is needed when one leaves misty barrels and clear skies. A toasted bagel with provolone, tomato, sand and red onion. The Java Cafe on Judha, kicking our feet up on the fire hydrant, with the sound of dragging plastic chairs, and more sun.